The New Yorker published its annual food issue this week, and one of the feature stories, by staff writer Dana Goodyear, details the efforts of Belcampo and its CEO Anya Fernald to “restore meat to its status as a luxury: delectable, expensive, and rare.” In the article, Goodyear spends time at Belcampo’s Northern California farm and butchery, sits in on meetings at the company’s Jack London Square headquarters, takes part in the Eat Real Festival, and visits several of the BCV-designed shops – describing them as “spanking clean, with crisp blue-and-white tile, marble countertops, and gold lettering on the windows.”
Goodyear also chronicles Belcampo’s (and many California ranchers’) struggle with the current drought, as well as the opportunity it could present for encouraging consumers to try more of a range of meat, noting that “as in other times of scarcity, necessity might drive consumers to broaden their habits—teach them to cook cheaper cuts and accept alternatives to beef.”
You can read the article in its entirety here.